Trails and Tribulations: Life Inside an Inferno
On Sunday night, two weeks ago, I sat at the lookout 290m from my back door and watched the world as I know it burn. In my arms I cradled my two small sons, all of us wrapped up in a hoodie because it was unseasonably cold. It was the first day of summer. While other onlookers bustled around all excited energy and unnerving smiles, I couldn’t keep the tears from streaming down my face. I wasn’t afraid of my house burning to the ground, though of course that was a serious concern, nor was I particularly worried about the safety of my boys, sure that we were all just a car ride away from safer climes. I don’t know why it seems like a weird thing to say, but I was devastated to see Narrow Neck going up in flames, the place I feel the most free and at peace in the entire world. Narrow Neck plateau is a windy spur of land two streets away from my home in South Katoomba, that snakes its way between the Megalong and Jamison valleys towards Kanangra. And some very primal and important part of me is wrapped up in that piece of land and bush and sky and soil and I’m going to try my best to explain here, what that is.
Running
I know that a lot of you are like, “Yuck! Running! You do running for fun? Yuck. Running.” Which you are totally entitled to think and I don’t even care when you say it to me, because running is my passion and it doesn’t have to be yours too. I think my adoration for running is best described by the Jason Isbell song, “Something To Love” which expounds the virtues of having something that you love that gets you through life. Much more articulate than I am, Isbell sings
I hope you find something to love
Something to do when you feel like giving up
A song to sing or a tale to tell
Something to love, it'll serve you well
For me, that is running. Of course when I started, it was hard. I’d run a few steps, stop and splutter, walk, hate that I was getting further from home, turn around intent on going back and then begrudgingly run a few more steps. But when I started running on trails, I knew I’d found my “something to love”. Finding my feet as a new mum, not too sure who I was anymore, this person bearing a huge burden of responsibility, I started running on trails near my home. With every step, the heaviness left my shoulders and as I found a rhythm, my feet pounded all my worries methodically into the dirt. As I went, the views opened up, the endorphins kicked in and I really knew life was worth living. Running in the bush in particular, is meditative for me. There is something about the ever-changing but static environment of my favourite trails, punctuated by my rhythmic footsteps, that sends me to a very calm and happy place. I set reminders in my phone to do certain runs at certain times to see certain things; the Waratahs near Mount Solitary in early spring, the Comesperma and Pomaderris on the path to Hanging Rock in October, the crazy array of fungi along any moist stairs in autumn, the glow worms littering the walls of canyons on summer nights, the water holes and rivers replete with water dragons and blissful refreshment for my sweaty skin in summer. While the landscape is constantly evolving, flowers cease blooming and new ones take their place, trees fall across trails and landslides claim paths, the bones of it all are always the same and I’ve come to rely upon their consistency to anchor me in rougher times.
Narrow Neck
I started running on Narrow Neck about three years ago. I’d driven past the dirt road that led to the locked gate that marks its beginning so many times, and once I started trail running it was the first place I thought to go. I started out slow, like I was courting the trail, wanting to establish the good foundation of a lasting relationship. I eased into her baked sand path and iron-seamed rocks. The first time I parked at the locked gate at the top of her winding dirt road, I ran just three kilometres. The next time five and then six and seven. I felt like such an explorer, every run taking me around another bend and to a vista I’d never seen before. I wanted to savour the discovery of it. The first time I ran there, I made it to the stand of perfectly protected Eucalyptus oreades. Their bark was hanging down in ribbons, like slack cheerleader pom poms, refusing to cheer me on as I expended my energy, red in the face. The next time I made it down the steep hill and around the narrow bend, it was windy and I imagined falling down the escarpment. I perched on a rock and looked back at Katoomba, feeling like the world was mine. When I made it to the fire tower, it’s toilet and scrubby bush full of wailing black cockatoos I felt like a fucking warrior (and I got to pee in a toilet on a run, what a civilised experience). Like a good book, I couldn’t stand the thought of reaching the end, so I parceled it out to myself, only going occasionally, only going one or two kilometres further each time. When I passed the fire tower, knowing this was my penultimate exploratory run, the mist was so thick that there was no view, just Waratahs and Persoonias looming out of the fog like vivid red and green channel markers on a wide, dark river. And the first time I ran to the very end, I was listening to the audiobook of Dracula. I summitted the final rise, revealing the whole new world of the Wild Dog Ranges and Kanangra Boyd as Van Helsing was confronting Dracula. As they battled, my feet tumbled down the path towards my own destiny and I felt like I had come home, this place I had never been, already so familiar.
Between that first run to the end and the next, I had grown and birthed another baby. A year and a half had elapsed and I felt like I was a different human to the one who ran it last time, but my evolution was inversely proportional to Narrow Neck’s same-ness. I was in a bit of a grumpy mood, having wanted to run naked under the full harvest moon, the night before. What a beautiful, earthy thing to do. But Nick had poo-pooed the notion deeming it “unsafe”. I don’t want to ever put an emoji in one of my blogs, but I’d insert the eye roll one here if I did. It was early morning when I finally ran, and I’d made it the ten kilometres to the end of the trail, before 8am. I was all alone, kilometres from anyone in the beautiful stillness of the morning, just me and the mountains. And there, lying on the path was the freshly dismembered leg and tail of a swamp wallaby. It didn’t even have flies on it yet, it was so new. I begrudgingly accepted that maybe Nick had been right about not running here naked and alone, due to the werewolves that were apparently out slaughtering wildlife under the full moon.
And so sitting, watching this island of land, which has been the stage of my independence, where I run to cure the blues, to pour out my anger, to banish this ennui which settles on me unexpectedly, where I run to celebrate wins, or to bolster my happiest days, going up in smoke, was one of the worst things I’ve ever seen. Seeing those same leaves, who opened their stomata daily to turn my local carbon dioxide into beautiful clean oxygen, being incinerated, somehow magicking themselves into a poisonous smoke which made my children cough, was horrific.
Narrow Neck burnt for two weeks. Not one day passing without the sound of choppers overhead, the Huey’s making it feel particularly visceral, sounding like doom and Vietnam. Her trails still aren’t open, and won’t be for I don’t know how long, and I just wanted to tell you all out there in the ether that I love and miss her. That is all. Thank you for listening to my love letter to a pile of rocks and dirt, I hope you have something non-sentient in your life to love as much as I do her.